A Lot to Swallow: An Overview of the Food Industry
by Philip Mattera
The U.S. population spends about 15 percent of its disposable income on
food, and a substantial portion of that money ends up in the hands of a
processed-food industry with half a trillion dollars in annual revenues.
U.S. agriculture and food processing yield a remarkable quantity and variety
of edible offerings, but this industry increasingly finds itself surrounded
by controversy. Here are some of the reasons:
Concentration of Ownership
The food industry is becoming controlled to an
ever greater extent by a small number of mega-corporations that have the
power to manipulate markets. Grain trading is dominated by the likes of
Cargill, the largest privately held company in the United States. Thousands
of brands of packaged food are owned by a handful of companies such as
Philip Morris and ConAgra, as well as their European-based rivals Nestle and
Unilever. Meatpacking is ruled by companies such as pork producer Smithfield
Foods, which owns some 700,000 sows, and Tyson Foods, which leads the
poultry business and is now poised to dominate beef through its deal to
acquire IBP Inc.
The large food processors have been swallowing their competitors at a rapid
rate. The past year alone has seen deals such as the $20 billion takeover of
Bestfoods by Unilever, the $15 billion acquisition of Nabisco by Philip
Morris and the $13 billion sale of Quaker Oats to PepsiCo.
Concentration of ownership keeps consumer prices artificially high (note the
ridiculous cost of brand-name breakfast cereals, for instance), but there is
an even more dramatic effect on small farmers and ranchers, whose fate is
increasingly determined by large corporations at both ends: Big seed, feed
and fertilizer companies dominate the market for agricultural inputs, and
other powerful companies dominate the markets in which farmers and ranchers
sell their output. Family farmers end up paying more for their raw materials
while the slump in commodity prices has depressed the income they receive
for their product. One of the worst problems is in the meat business, in
which a system of captive livestock marketing perpetuates anti-competitive
practices that weaken the bargaining position of small cattle producers.
The position of family farmers is weakened by two other factors: federal
policy and new trade practices. The so-called Freedom to Farm Act of 1996
makes farmers more dependent on market forces, and the free trade principles
of the World Trade Organization discourage government aid to farmers. All of
these factors have led to a precipitous drop in the number of family farms
at the same time that the big agribusiness companies grow more powerful.
Biotechnology
Advances in genetic engineering have inspired the food
industry to propose a variety of new foodstuffs that will purportedly be
healthier, cheaper and better tasting. Companies such as Monsanto have
developed patented seeds that produce crops resistant to blights and insect
pests--and are promoting them as solutions to world hunger. The industry's
biotech thrust has been met by a movement that questions the safety of such
technology and warns that strict corporate control of seeds will turn small
farmers into serfs. The movement, which is stronger in Europe but gaining
ground in the United States, has generated enough public concern that some
large food processors and fast-food chains are refusing to purchase some
genetically altered produce. European drug companies Novartis and
AstraZeneca merged and spun off their agribusiness operations into a new
company called Syngenta, at least in part to diffuse protests over
genetically altered foods.
Last September Kraft Foods recalled millions of taco shells after learning
that they contained a genetically engineered corn called StarLink that was
not approved for human consumption. (StarLink is a product of Aventis, a
company formed by the merger of two European chemicals giants: France's Rhone-Poulenc and Germany's Hoechst.) It later came out that other foods had
been contaminated with StarLink, leading to the recall of hundreds of
products and substantial disruption of the grain-handling industry.
Food Adulteration
The purity of many foods that are not genetically
engineered has also come into question. Meat quality is threatened by a
drive to relax federal inspection, while at the same time there is
widespread concern that the mad cow disease afflicting European herds will
spread to this side of the Atlantic. There are regular outbreaks of E. coli
and other foodborne diseases. For example, last month turkey deli meat
produced by Cargill was blamed in four food-poisoning deaths tied to listeria.
Other threats to food quality and human health include the heavy use of
antibiotics in animal feed, the drive to expand food irradiation and the
perennial use of dangerous pesticides.
Environmental Impact
Certain kinds of food production also pose a threat to
the environment. Water quality is endangered by the spread of confined
animal feeding operations. CAFOs, otherwise known as factory farms, produce
huge quantities of animal waste that often makes its way, untreated, into
waterways. The filthy conditions at the CAFOs also contaminate the meat--a
problem that the industry wants to address with the dubious solution of
irradiation.
Labor Practices
The meatpacking industry has one of the worst records when
it comes to recognizing the collective bargaining rights of its employees.
During the 1980s the industry launched an all-out assault on wage levels,
resulting in bitter strikes. Companies such as IBP, ConAgra and Smithfield
have done everything possible to thwart organizing drives. Earlier this
month an administrative law judge at the National Labor Relations Board
found Smithfield guilty of "egregious and pervasive" labor law violations in
the course of resisting organizing efforts by the United Food and Commercial
Workers.
World's Top 25 Food and Beverage
Companies
(ranked by 1999 food and beverage revenues, in millions of U.S. dollars)
| 1. Nestle | 41,422 |
| 2. Philip Morris Companies | 31,139 |
| 3. ConAgra Foods Inc. | 24,594 |
| 4. PepsiCo Inc. | 20,367 |
| 5. Unilever | 20,310 |
| 6. The Coca-Cola Co. | 19,805 |
| 7. Cargill Inc. | 17,143 |
| 8. Diageo | 16,419 |
| 9. Mars Inc. | 14,500 |
| 10. Archer Daniels Midland | 14,283 |
| 11. IBP Inc. | 14,075 |
| 12. Kirin | 12,427 |
| 13. Snow Brand | 11,870 |
| 14. Anheuser-Busch | 11,704 |
| 15. Sara Lee Corp. | 10,818 |
| 16. Danone | 10,532 |
| 17. Suntory | 10,022 |
| 18. Asahi Breweries | 9,704 |
| 19. H.J. Heinz Co. | 9,410 |
| 20. Maruha | 8,675 |
| 21. Bestfoods | 8,637 |
| 22. Nabisco | 8,268 |
| 23. Nippon Meat Packers | 8,101 |
| 24. Tyson Foods | 7,363 |
| 25. Kellogg Co. | 6,984 |
Source: Food Engineering magazine, October 2000
Here are thumbnail sketches of the top 10 food giants:
NESTLE S.A. (headquarters: Vevey, Switzerland)
1999 total revenues: $46.7 billion
1999 profits: $3.0 billion
This global food and beverage giant is best known in the United States as
the producer of Nestle Crunch chocolate bars, but it is also a world leader
in instant coffee (Nescafe, etc.) and bottled water (it now owns Perrier,
Poland Spring and San Pellegrino). Among its other major brands are Buitoni
pasta, Stouffer's frozen meals, KitKat candy bars and Alpo dog food. Nestle
is still remembered among activists because of its controversial record in
pushing infant formula in poor countries.
PHILIP MORRIS COMPANIES (New York City)
1999 total revenues: $78.6 billion
1999 profits: $7.7 billion
Tobacco giant Philip Morris (once described by Business Week as "America's
most reviled company") began hedging its bets in the 1980s by swallowing up
two familiar names in U.S. food processing: General Foods and Kraft. What is
now known as Kraft Foods is the largest U.S. food producer with all-American
brands such as Jell-O, Kool-Aid, Kraft Macaroni & Cheese, Post cereals and
Oscar Mayer processed meats. Last year it spent $15 billion to acquire
Nabisco (formerly owned by another tobacco company, R. J. Reynolds), thus
adding brands such as Oreo cookies and Ritz crackers to its stable. Philip
Morris also owns Miller Brewing, the second largest U.S. beer producer.
CONAGRA FOODS INC. (Omaha)
2000 total revenues (fiscal year ends in May): $25.4 billion
2000 profits: $798 million
During the 1980s ConAgra transformed itself from a sleepy producer of feed,
flour and poultry into a diversified and aggressive food producer. The firm
became a major force in meatpacking through the purchase of Armour, Monfort
of Colorado, and half of Swift Independent. In 1990 it broadened its
holdings by acquiring Beatrice Co., a food giant that had fallen victim to
corporate restructuring mania. Today ConAgra's operations are divided into
three main segments: Refrigerated Foods (Butterball turkeys, Hebrew National
hot dogs, etc.), Packaged Foods (Wesson oil, Healthy Choice meals, Parkay
margarine, etc.) and Agricultural Products (fertilizer, seed and crop
protection chemicals).
PEPSICO INC. (Purchase, New York)
1999 total revenues: $20.4 billion
1999 profits: $2.1 billion
The parent company of Pepsi-Cola dates back to the late 19th Century, but it
was not until the 1950s that it became a significant contender in the market
for flavored sugar water. Since then Pepsi and Coke have engaged in a
classic American rivalry. PepsiCo experimented with diversification, moving
into dry snack foods in the 1960s with the purchase of Frito-Lay and trying
out the restaurant business in the 1970s by acquiring Pizza Hut and Taco
Bell (and later Kentucky Fried Chicken). PepsiCo abandoned the restaurant
business in 1997 but strengthened its position in beverages with the
purchase of Tropicana in 1998. Last year PepsiCo added oatmeal, Gatorade
sports drink and granola bars to its lineup with a $13.4 billion purchase of
Quaker Oats.
UNILEVER (London and Rotterdam, Netherlands)
1999 total revenues: $43.6 billion
1999 profits: $3.0 billion
Unilever, one of the leviathans of the global packaged goods industry, is a
peculiar English-Dutch hybrid enterprise. The two Unilever companies list
their stock separately but have a single board of directors and consolidated
financial accounts. Unilever got started in the soap business, later moved
into margarine and then branched into a variety of foods, beverages
(especially Lipton tea) and household and personal care items. In the late
1990s Unilever slimmed down with the cancellation of some 1,000 brands and
25,000 jobs. Last year Unilever ended the independence of the unorthodox ice
cream company Ben & Jerry's by purchasing it for $326 million and went on to
swallow the much larger Bestfoods (Hellman's mayonnaise, Skippy peanut
butter, etc.) for more than $20 billion.
COCA-COLA CO. (Atlanta)
1999 total revenues: $19.8 billion
1999 profits: $2.4 billion
Coca-Cola is the best known product name in the world, and the Coca-Cola
Company is the undisputed leader of the international soft drink industry.
The company gets about two-thirds of its operating income from outside the
United States, by cultivating markets large and small. In addition to
carbonated soft drinks, the company 's beverage operations include Minute
Maid juices, Powerade sports drinks, and Dasani bottled water. Faced with
threats of a boycott, Coca-Cola agreed to pay $192 million last November to
settle a major racial discrimination lawsuit.
CARGILL INC. (Wayzata, Minnesota)
2000 total revenues (fiscal year ends in May): $47.6 billion
2000 profits: $480 million
Cargill, the largest of the highly secretive group of companies that
dominate the world grain trade, got some unwelcome attention in the 1970s
because of its role in arranging the controversial Soviet grain sales.
Cargill later branched out into a variety of other businesses, including
salt mining and sugar. In 1978 it acquired meatpacker MBPXL, later renamed
Excel. Cargill's operations include commodity trading of gain, cotton and
sugar, futures brokering and feed and fertilizer production. In 1999 Cargill
received federal approval to acquire the grain business of its rival
Continental Grain after agreeing to sell off nine facilities.
DIAGEO (London)
2000 total revenues (fiscal year ends in June): $17.9 billion
2000 profits: $392 million
Diageo is the result of the 1997 merger of two global giants of the
alcoholic beverage business: Grand Metropolitan and Guinness. Grant Met also
brought with it Pillsbury Co., the well-known purveyor of baking products
and frozen foods (Green Giant brand) it had acquired in 1988. Last year
Diageo agreed to spin off Burger King (acquired by Pillsbury in the 1960s)
and to sell Pillsbury to its competitor General Mills for some $10 billion;
the latter deal is awaiting regulatory approval.
MARS INC. (McLean, Virginia)
1999 total revenues: $15.3 billion (Forbes estimate)
1999 profits: $1.1 billion (Forbes estimate)
Privately held Mars is the number two U.S. candy maker (behind Hershey)
with brands such as M&Ms, Snickers and Skittles. The company also produces
the leading branded rice in the United States (Uncle Ben's) and pet foods
such as Pedigree and Whiskas.
ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND CO. (Decatur, Illinois)
2000 total revenues (fiscal year ends in June): $12.9 billion
2000 profits: $300.9 million
ADM, self-proclaimed "supermarket to the world," is one of the largest
processors of agricultural commodities on earth, though it sells little
directly to consumers. Dwayne Andreas, who took over the company in 1966,
globalized ADM and became a leading advocate of soybeans as the solution to
world hunger. He also made ADM a major producer of corn sweeteners (which
have replaced sugar in soft drinks) and was a tireless proponent of
corn-based ethanol as a gasoline additive. Thanks to generous campaign
contributions (including some that turned out to be illegal), ADM gained
enormous political clout in Washington. Yet that was not sufficient to
thwart a price-fixing investigation propelled by the testimony of an ADM
manager who was serving as an undercover informant for the FBI. In 1996 ADM
agreed to pay $100 million to settle charges that it conspired to fix the
price of lysine and citric acid. Later three former ADM
executives--including the son of Dwayne Andreas--were found guilty of
conspiracy to fix lysine prices.
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